One taste, though, and I understood fermented tofu immediately: it was full of that funky fermentated flavour that long ago seduced me into the world of stinky cheeses, but it was also: strikingly unique. more like miso, to my taste, and like both miso and cheese, fermented tofu comes in a wild wide range of flavours: strong smelly spicy sweet: fermented plain, with chillies, with whole soybeans or simply clear liquid, or…..like this treasure jar i found in Taipei’s military dependents culture cafe/shop, pineapple-fermented with whole beans. My friend, who grew up in the military dependents village, said: this is very Taiwanese: the pineapple, the whole beans. What do i use them with? i asked. which is a wonderful way to get recipes.

With fish. delicious with fish.

was the answer.

but when i got home i opened my jar, and began lifting out squares of fermented tofu, mashing it, adding it to marinades, vegetable stir-fries (esp with green leaves such as spinach or chard), even to fried rice. Slightly sweet, the little beans are like little morself of umami, the marinade that cloaks the soft pungent tofu studded with pieces of candied pinapple. By the time i was nearing the end of the jar, i hadn’t used it with fish.

So, inspired by Taipei, where I also found my beloved sweet herb, Thai basil, flung into many dishes, each time I inhaled its perfume bringing a smile to my face…..i whipped up this dish.

Taipei-Inspired Fermented Tofu-Fish, with Thai Sweet Basil

Serves 2 (double for 4, etc)

2 medium sized fish fillets: i used plaice, with the skin on, though cod would also be good: any mild white-fleshed fish

About 2 squares fermented tofu, preferable pinapple–if its not available use plain or with whole beans: don’t use the chile-spiced fermented tofu as the dish is meant to be mild

(optional: if using plain rather than pineapple-fermented tofu, add a generous pinch or two of sugar)

About 2 teaspoons thinly julienned or coarsely shredded fresh ginger

Dash soy sauce

Sesame oil brushed in nonstick pan

A few leaves of ramps/bear garlic, or thinly sliced tender leek/or chopped spring/green onions

Small handful Thai basil leaves, coarsely torn

Rinse fish in cold water then pat dry; place in bowl and cover with mashed tofu, ginger, soy sauce.Let sit about 10 minutes.

Heat nonstick frying pan to a medium heat, brush with small amount sesame oil, then place the fish, still covered with its marinade, into the pan (skin side down if using fish that has skin). Cook over medium heat for a few minutes, until fish just begins to firm up, then flip over onto the other side, add the ramps or other green onions, cover pan with a lid, and turn off the heat. Leave for 5-10 minutes, letting fish steam in its own juices.

Serve hot/warm, sprinkled with torn thai basil leaves.

The cake started out for a birthday, with me saying: yes, i’ll make a cake. Carrot, you say? then thumbing through as many cookbooks as i could find for something that would remind me of my carrot cake making days. I didn’t find a pineapple-carrot one, which is really what i wanted, but i found a good basic carrot cake and began adding things that wouldn’t interfere with the balance of moisture that the seemingly indestructible recipe delivered: raisins and sometimes candied orange rind, increasing the amounts of nearly everything except the basic cake batter.

The result was blissful. I made a cake a week, a cake every couple of days, i made little cakes and planned cakes shaped like pyramids, pianos, and puppy dogs.  i brought my friend Steven this cake for his birthday with his portrait drawn in cinnamon shakes. I made cakes for birthdays, dinner parties,  and cakes for French class; then came my own birthday. My friend Mridula Baljekar and I were planning a menu of spiciness: her chicken and tomato curry, my southern Italian spaghetti aglio-olio, her chickpea chaat, my ratatouille filled with middle eastern spices. I was yearning to make yet another carrot cake–but with the scent and spices of our menu and the American/British fluffy carrot-y cake layered with cream-cheese and butter frosting….I knew I’d have to go exotic.

My cake already has a nice jolt of ginger, and sometimes i boost that with fresh ginger, or candied ginger, but in the back of my mind was carrot halva and the other Indian sweets scented with cardamom. Carrots love cardamom. And I love cardamom.

To be honest, you don’t need to put cardomom in it at all: its good without it, but a more unusual twist with it. If you get the carrot cake bug, you might find yourself coming up with all sorts of other things to add. I’ve been wondering about orange flower water in the frosting–will let you know how it turns out.

measures are in metric, will add usa equivilents soon

Cardamom Carrot Cake

Preheat oven to gas mark 3/ 170C

300g soft brown sugar, or light brown muscovado sugar

3 eggs

300 ml vegetable oil (sometimes i add a bit of olive oil in place of some of the vegetable oil)

300g self rising flour

1 easpoon baking soda

1 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon or to taste

1/2-1 teaspoon dried powdered ginger

Optional: a few tablespoons candied, sugared, ginger or ginger in syrup

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2-1 teaspoon vanilla extract/essence

Dash almond extract

5-6 cardomom pods, seeds only

300-400g (about 3 big ones) coarsely shredded

About 75 g coarsely chopped walnuts or pecans

Several handfuls of raisins (or mixture raisins, sultana and diced dried orange peel)

In a large bowl with a wooden spoon, mix together the brown sugar, eggs and vegetable oil until well combined.

Stir in the flour, baking soda, cinnamon, ginger, salt, vanilla, almond and cardamom, stirring only until well mixed, then add the carrots, and mix in until only well mixed. The consistency should be something like a thick gloppy batter.

Pour into 2 cake/sponge  tins (smaller than usa ones, i’d say, maybe 8 inches?)  that you’ve oiled and floured.

Bake about 20-25 minutes until golden brown on top, springy when touched, and no longer liquidy.

Remove from oven, use a knife to loosen the cake from the edge in the pan. Invert them onto baking racks to cool completely.

Make frosting:

1 stick of unsalted butter (about 175g/ 6 ounces), at room temperature

Icing/confectioners sugar, to taste: about 300g

2 packages cream cheese, at room temperature

Several generous dashes vanilla extract/essence

Drop or two almond extract/essence

In a big bowl with a wooden spoon beat the butter to soften it; if its too cool, warm it a few moments in the microwave or in a bowl over a larger bowl of warm water.

If the confectioners sugar is lumpy, sift it first; usually when its first purchased its not lumpy, once its been opened, it can be very lumpy. Judge for yourself.

Beat the confectioners sugar into the butter, then when well mixed, beat in the cream cheese, taking care not to overbeat as overbeating can cause graininess.

Taste for sweet-sour balance, and add vanilla and almond extracts; mix well and chill until ready to ice the cake.

bear garlic/wild garlic/ramps growing in the glen......

not only do i live in the middle of a blackberry forest, come august, in springtime it is a nettle woods, and when spring segues into early summer, its a forest of wild garlic, ramps, or l’ail d’ours–bear garlic: leaves of glossy lush green-ness that exhudes the aroma of garlic, of strong green leafy garlickness. Bear garlic, aka ramps, or wild garlic, is not for the culinary faint of heart. Its not even garlic, despite its name: bear garlic is a wild leek, wild garlic is in my forest too, and i might do a posting of it before the season ends…..it looks different, with thin stems, and smells more garlicky and strangely more delicate. Ramps, bear garlic, man these things are wild!

I’ve been informally polling friends about how they use their foraging cache: raw in salads, check! chopped in omelets, check! shredded with new potatoes, baby peas, olive oil and goats cheese. My Himalayan friend Mridula says that in India it is used to wrap spice-coated fish; gardener friend Steven stuffs chicken with it,  and Judy who grew up in Fiji and the Caribbean cooks it like a stir-fry; as for me, i’m thinking about adding it to Iranian style rice pilau, scrambling it softly with eggs, or kneaded into country bread, as i usually do rosemary, or thyme, or dill. but really:  no matter what else i cook and eat and frolick in garlic wise, in truth:  i’m all about pesto.

pesto was my introduction to wild garlic: in a farmers market in strasbourg, france; a little stall was selling jars and offering tastes: it was ardent, it was fragrant, it was strong, nearly unbearably so. but, garlic crazy-lady that i’ve always been, i loved it. i bought jars and gave them to everyone i knew; many liked it in varying degrees. Others requested I never ever mention wild garlic again.

but i was undaunted and each season when the bright green leaves start growing abundantly, determinedly, i’m there with a bag to fill. each and every day. until the season is gone.and there are hints of the blackberries to come….

simple wild garlic/ramp/bear garlic pesto:

wild garlic pesto: freshly made. can you smell it?

pesto:

big handfuls of fresh unblemished wild garlic, ramps, bear garlic, cut up coarsely

enough olive oil to puree the leaves with

a small handful coarsely chopped walnuts or pinenuts (about 1 tablespoon)

Several tablespoons grated grana/parmigiano/asiago or other hard cheese

Several pinches salt

1. put it all in a food processor or blender and whirl, turning it off and on, so that all the leaves have a chance to puree evenly.

2. taste for seasoning; i might be so strong it will take your breath away. get a nice chunk of bread and eat it spread on the bread; if you’re going to fall in love, this might do it.

3. place in a bowl or jar and drizzle olive oil over the top. i like to eat it fresh tossed with al dente pasta, green beans and potatoes as you’d do with a classic basil pesto in Liguria. It freezes well; pour into a jar, drizzle olive oil over the top, pop on the lid and freeze; should last up to about 3-6 months in the deep-freeze but really: you’ll want to nosh it sooner than that.

Soft Scramble of Ramps and Eggs

potato salad in bear garlic/ramp dressing

Potato Salad with Tangy, Green, Ramp/Bear Garlic Dressing

Meanwhile, to eat today, this very moment when the ramps are fresh and you’re wondering what to do with them: potato salad. green, green, and very tangy, potato salad.

About 1 lb new potatoes, or fingerlings, ratte, other small delicious waxy spuds, peeled or not, as you prefer

2 eggs

About 10 leaves of ramp/bear garlic, coarsely cut up

About 3 heaping tablespoons mayonaise

About 3 heaping tablespoons yogurt

1-2 tespoons brined capers with a few droplets or more, as desired, of their juice

A few drops of lemon juice

About a tablespoon olive oil

Salt and pepper to taste

Boil the potatoes in salted water until they are just cooked through and no more; drain well and set aside. Hard boil the eggs; i often just put them in with the potatoes when the spuds are about halfway cooked.

To peel the eggs, crack each against the other, rinse under very cold water, and peel. Rinse again to rid the eggs of any shells.

In a blender or food processor, whirl the ramp/bear garlic with the mayo, yogurt, capers, lemon juice and olive oil. Season to taste. The dressing should be quite a nice green, and very aromatic. that is to say, it smells like a garlic forest.

Slice the potatoes, chopped the eggs, and combine. Let cool so it doesnt melt the dressing; when cool enough spoon in the dressing and mix well; garnic with thinly sliced fresh bear garlic/ ramp leaves, and eat now or chill until ready to serve.

Soft Scramble of Ramps and Eggs

Serves 2, multiply at will

Big handful of ramps: thinly sliced, about 20 leaves or as desired

2-3 tablespoons butter

4 eggs, lightly beaten with a tablespoon or two of water or milk added

1 tablespoon cream cheese

Salt to taste

Pepper to taste–i’m quite fond of toasted, coarsely crushed Szechuan peppercorns

In a small omelet or other frying pan, such as nonstick, warm about half the butter then add the ramps; melt together, over medium light heat, rather than fry. When ramps are wilted, pour in the eggs and add the cream cheese; sprinkle with salt to taste.

Cook over medium heat, quickly, as the eggs form curds lift up the edges and let the liquid run under; stir a bit to be sure the cream cheese is melting into the eggs and ramps. If desired, when the eggs are about halfway through add the rest of the butter–though this adds deliciously smooth richness, the ramps and eggs are good without it, too. Use your concience or desire to decide.

Do not overcook, serve it in satiny curds, along with crisp crunchy pain levain which really:don’t need buttering at all: the eggs are lusciously buttery enough. More on the toast will simply obscure.

Aromatic Fresh and Zingy Ramp Mustard

Aromatic Fresh and Zingy Ramp Mustard

Puree coarsely chopped fresh ramps–say, a big handful, 20 or so leaves, with about 1/2 cup or so tasty tangy mustard: for this i used half spicy and slightly sweet, one of my culinary souvenirs from Poland, and half a not-too-strong Dijon shlepped back in my suitcase from France. (my mustard shelf is my international treasure.) Whirl together in a food processor or blender, or simply chop the ramps finely and stir in with the mustard/s.

Slather onto pan browned fabulous sausages or fish as it is grilling. and yes, i eat it by the spoonful.

will last up to a week or so, covered, in fridge.

Green, Green, and Aromatic to the point of delicious reeking, Puree of Bear-Garlic (Ramps) Soup

Makes about 6 bowlfuls

1 potato, peeled and diced

6 cups or 1 litre broth/stock: chicken, vegetable, or a personal favourite, porcini (buy the stock cubes when you find em; speciality stores or if you’re lucky to be in italy, a good time to stock up and shlep back!)

Small handful green beans or 2 green runner beans (Romano beans), cut up

Big big handful ramps/bear garlic: lots. 20-30 big leaves, or 40 small ones, just a couple of handfuls. or as much as you desire, can tolerate, cut up coarsely

About 1 cup/250ml heavy (double) cream, more if you like, or less if you prefer; the rich cream helps cut the shock of the bear garlic, rounds it out

Combine potato chunks and stock/broth in a saucepan and bring to the boil; simmer until potato is tender, about 10 minutes, then add green beans until they are tenderish but still bright green, a minute or two.

Puree in blender or food processor with the ramps/bear garlic, until it is smoothish. Salt and white pepper to taste and add cream.

Serve hot, warm, or cool, as a sort of garlic forest vichychoise.

Puree of Bear-Garlic (Ramp) Soup

Mediterranean Bread Salad--Panzanella--with Bear Garlic/Ramps

Mediterranean Bread Salad with Ramps/Bear Garlic and Black Oil-Cured Olives

For 4

About 8 ounces dried country bread, pain levain

Several cloves chopped garlic

About 10 to 15 big bear garlic/ramp leaves, cut into thin strips

2 nice ripe tomatoes, diced (or 3, or 4, depending on the season and state of the tomatoes)

About 10 oil-cured black olives, pitted and cut into several pieces each

2-3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil or to taste

A few drops of white wine vinegar, or to taste

Salt to taste

In a large bowl place the bread then pour water over it. Leave for a few minutes to rehydrate–the exact amount of time depends on how dry the bread was to start with) then drain and squeeze out the excess liquid. Discard the squeezed out liquid, and gently combine the bread with the remaining ingredients. Mix well and set aside to combine flavours, until you are ready to eat. Taste for seasoning.

Good the next day too, possibly better.

Ramp-Wrapped Asiany-Mustardy Fish

Alas, no picture, we ate it before i had a chance to snap. it was so good, i must include recipe: if i make it again will snap and post. Meanwhile, delish just delish. Instead of ramps/bear garlic, if its not the season,  i’d wrap the fish around several times with a couple of tender-ish green leek leaves. The ramps/bear garlic/leek leaves don’t really stay on the fish, rather keep it moist, keeps the mustard from burning or sticking, and end up as both tender leaves and crispy bits in the pan.

Serves 4

4 thick cod fillet pieces, 4-6 ounces/ 125g-175g  each

Pinch salt

4-5 cloves garlic, coarsely chopped

1/2 -1 teaspoon reduced sodium soy sauce (or regular and adjust salt accordingly)

2 teaspoons sesame oil

About 2 tablespoons mildish Dijon or Polish type mustard, or–if  you’ve made the ramp mustard, use that

About 20 ramp/bear garlic/tender leek leaves (blanch them if too tough to bend)

Rinse the cod fillets in cold water, then dry; sprinkle with salt, garlic, soy sauce and sesame oil, rubbing it all in well. Leave to stand for about 10 minutes.

Spread each fillet with mustard, then lay each one out onto several ramp/bear garlic/leek leaves, and wrap up. The fish won’t be completely covered, which is okay, the leaves come off a bit when cooking.

Heat a nonstick frying pan just large enough to fit the fish, smear with a whisper of olive oil, then place the wrapped fillets into the pan. Cook over medium heat about 5 minutes, until the fish begins to turn opaque then turn over. Cover with lid, squirt with a few drops of lemon juice, then remove from heat, and let fish finish cooking in its own steam.

Eat right away.

freshly pickled wild garlic from the forest

Yesterday was national draw-a-bird day in the United Kingdom. Lambchop drew a chicken, a roast chicken, its her FAVOURITE bird.

lambchop drew a chicken

And THATS not even addressing the sweet smells and tastes of food, and perfumes, and flavours. A world without the richness of smelling, the ripe wealth of tastes? Its almost impossible to imagine. At least it WAS something I couldn’t even think of.

And then, nearly two years ago I was crossing the street when suddenly i was flying in the sky, seared with pain. I was hit by Mercedes SUV at speed.  I flew up and up and up and up, and landed down very fast. And very hard. And when I hit the ground, it was my head that hit first.

The good news is that I didn’t die; nor was I paralyzed.  The bad news grabbed me when I tried to eat: nothing had any taste/smell. My world was empty.

AND i was being bombarded by smells that weren’t there. Smoke. Poison. Straw. plastic (as in Barbie gone evil). and a few others. They are phantoms of smells.

Its been two years but I still struggle; my life is nearly unbearable when the phantoms are frequent and strong. I wake up many/most nights by a sense of horrible smell: smoke. Gas. are they real? is there a gas leak? on airplanes I smell smoke, fumes: are they real? should i panic?Last week I put down a cup of coffee and left the room a moment; when i returned i smelled not coffee, but smoke; and it smelled familiar; “Bacon”!!!! was what i suddenly smelled.

During the last 2 years I’ve spent most of my time working hard–physical therapy, psychological counseling and cognitive behavioural therapy for the post traumatic stress and nightmares, and dealing with the shocking loss of the very essence of my life: my pleasure of tasting and smelling, and the resulting talent and skills for making a living: writing cookbooks, columns, and broadcasting. I’ve also worked steadily, every moment  at trying to rebuild my ability to taste; often i feel bereft, and wonder whose life i am in and where my own delicious life has gone? Some tastes are better, some are nearly there, but usually when i think they are nearly there i often get a shock and realize that i’m missing so much. And I must work very hard at putting together various elements of taste instead of just appreciating them, as most people do. Smells and tastes morph when i’m cooking into something that smells good to others but to me, smells horrific. Its confusing. In other words: its heartbreaking.  I just want my life back.

Taste and smells are THAT important.

Listen to BBC Radio 4 The Food Programme this Sunday, 17 March 12.30 and rebroadcast the next day, Monday at 3.30. As a guest, I tell my story and explore with the team taste/smell–cheese at Neals Yard, Coffee at Freestate Cafe with Jeremy Torz, and jelly beans (The Jelly Bean Test) with Professor Barry C. Smith at The University of London.

Suvir was on the East Coast; Amy and I were in the Bay Area. We decided to head out to an Indian grocery–in this instance, the shop right next door to Vik’s Chaat House in Berkeley. Since we were there, and it was midday, we had to have lunch first. To be perfectly honest, we planned to arrive for just this reason: Vik’s is legendary in its spicy and refreshingly affordable lusciousness. Everything is wonderful, and the daily special is….well, special. On this particular day, full of vegetables, awash in a complex spicy sauce: taro, okra, something mysterious and chewy, eggplant/aubergine…. It came on a plate with a layered whole wheat flat cake (paratha), yogurt raita, sizzlingly picante pickle/chutney, a delicate rice pilaff, and somewhere there were curried chickpeas….we also got a plate of aloo papri, and stuffed tiny puffs of crisp fried lentil cakes with a spicy curried potato mix, date chutney, and dipped it into a tangy herby aromatic water. you have to eat it in one bite or all is lost, pretty much down your chin.

I don’t have a foto of Amy and I eating. We were too in-the-moment– by the time either of us even thought of snapping our plates they were pretty much empty. BUT i do have a pic of Amy and I shopping. I’m holding up a MASSIVE jar of chutney/pickle. (famous am I for my love of pickles:Indian, Asian, American or Eastern European–you pickle it and i’ll probably love it).

Back to the poha; we wandered through the aisles at Viks in search. Poha is sold dry in cellophane or plastic bags; i might have seen large bags in burlap too. To prepare posa, simply moisten, then toss with spices and warmed gently, adding a little extra water or liquid as you toss in the pan.  It takes a short time to cook into a light, fluffy carby mound somewhat like snow, but neither cold nor melting. The flat rice flakes take on the flavours of the spices you toss it into the pan with: in this case, sizzled curry leaves, mustard seeds, and cumin; dressed in lime juice and fluffed with handfuls of chopped cilantro/coriander leaves, crunchy crisp peanuts and toasted coconut.  I served it as a lovely room temperature dish–almost salad-like–dish, to go alongside my annual eggplant parmesan bash for my friend Scott’s birthday. Also, I know it is a great to have a bowl in he fridge for several days running because we did, and its amazing how many times one of us was drawn to open the fridge, check out whats inside, and have a spoonful of the poha as long as we were there.

Poha–Indian Flat Rice Salad, studded with sweet potato, rice with a million textures and flavours: tart, herbal, spicy, rich, salty, everything all at the same time. And now that I know what to do with it, I don’t think i can live without it. Even now I am thining of dishes that poha would be wonderful in. Love: it was bound to happen.

Adapted from Suvir Suran, and made in cyber-conjunction with Amy Sherman

How many does it serve? it depends on how many other things you are serving. I made this amount and we ate from it for a few days; i liked it especially with a few dollops of yogurt on the side.

1/4 cup flaked unsweetened coconut

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

12 fresh curry leaves, roughtly torn

1/2 teaspoon black or yellow mustard seeds (Suvir calls for black; i’ve made it with both at different times; both are good!)

1/2 teaspoon cumin seeds

1 smallish dried red chile, left whole for a subtle head, broken up or crushed for full-blast hot

1/2 teaspoon asafoetida (a pungent resin used as a spice in Indian cooking)

1 big red onion, thinly sliced

1  1/2 teaspoons salt, divided into 2

1 medium sweet potato, peeled and diced into 1/2 inch pieces

1/3 cup roasted peanuts

1 green serrano chile, finely chopped (with or without seeds; as you like).

2 cups poha

2 extra tablespoons water, or enough to moisten the dish

Juice of 1 lime

1/2 cup chopped cilantro/fresh coriander

In a heavy ungreased frying pan toast the coconut until it is lightly browned, then remove from the pan.

Add the oil; let heat for a few moments, then add the curry leaves, mustard seeds, cumin seeds and red chile; add until the mustard seeds pop, then add the asafoetida, onions, and half the salt.

Cook until the onions are soft, then add the sweet potato and cook, stirring, until they sweet potatoes are tender and browned.

Add the toasted coconut, the peanuts and half the serrano chile. Rinse to moisten the poha, then drain of any excess water, and add to the mixture in the pan. Toss in a stir-fry kinda way until the poha plumps up and mixes with the other ingredients; drizzle in the 2 tablespoons of water, adding more as and if you need it. Cook for about 5 minutes.

Remove from heat, add the lime juice, half the cilantro/fresh coriander, and as much of the rest of the salt as needed.

assembling ingredients for the Poha:sweet potato,serrano chile, lime, spices......

Just before serving, sprinkle with or toss in rest of the cilantro and fresh

The finished poha: ready to eat!

serrano chile.

Amy and I shopping for Indian goodies at Vik's. i'm clutching my large jar of pickles.

Oscar in his furry lined all-weather coat, red leash.....

my little lambchop in her "sound of music" Austrian felt cape

Since I am loathe to end the delight of dinner, I don’t plan after-meal entertainment; you’ll never hear me say: “Eat up so we can have FUN”! On the other hand, I can’t say that unplanned post-meal entertainments chez moi NEVER happen– ABBA sing-alongs, re-enacting broadway musicals, or the occasional conga line that winds its way around my table, out the door, then through the neighborhood.

So today, when Nigel and Graham came to lunch, it wasn’t as if I had planned a doggy fashion show–what I planned was a delicious menu. Still, once the lightbulb went off in my mind, mid-meal, there was no stopping me.

We sipped Champagne and noshed crisp grissini wrapped with in thinly sliced salami, eggplant roasted with tomatoes and fresh basil was slicked with olive oil, reeking deliciously of garlic. Spears of red endive spears held tarragon chicken salad, cucumber slices were topped with goats cheese and a leaf of fresh mint, and because I can’t entertain without olives, ever, we had a bowl of oil cured black ones.

Taking a Mediterranean turn, i stirred up creamy soupy risotto, with lashings of gorgonzola and handfuls of aromatic Thai basil. So happily unexpected, captivating. Next I brought out a ceramic casserole of tandoori-ish lamb, on a bed of onions, surrounded by spicy meatballs–thats kofta to you and I, and a little a plate of east-west salad leaves lavished with lemon vinaigrette, to brighten up the richness.

Dessert was a frolic of flavor, an array of tiny sweet things: pureed chestnut mousse in espresso cups, mini “Marlena-messes”:broken meringues with whipped cream, frozen blackberries (which i had foraged in the summer and stashed in the deep freeze),with a dusting of lavender sugar. There were teeny baby-scoops sundaes topped with candied ginger and its syrup, and deliciously bitter chocolates to go with the coffee.

But wait: I haven’t yet introduced you to my dogs:Jake, Oscar and Lambchop–three Jack Russells. Jake is my chunky little man of a dog; small but solid–pick him up and he feels like a sack of potatoes. He’d like to get under the right weight for riding in the passenger part of the airplane, but he loves his grub too much. Lambchop, his daughter, is small and wiry: somewhere on her family tree is a Yorkie or chihuahua. A little child admired her recently, saying: “She has girly eyes”: rimmed with black as if eyeliner, dark lashes that frame big brown eyes to melt your heart. Sadly, our Lambchop is resolutely a member of “the bad girls’ club”, taking on the biggest ferocious dogs, growling like a possessed gremlin if anyone tries to take her bone, or refusing to move regardless of coaxing. At puppy class graduation it was recommended that “she could benefit from further training”. Then there is Oscar, a good ol’ boy, at least 16 years old, who we rehomed/rescued last year and are so happy he’s part of our home.

Nigel and Graham were smitten. Somewhere inbetween dessert and the coffee, I thought: “Wow, I wonder……” Then I asked a question that  I never dreamt I’d ask another adult: “Would you like to see Lambchop’s little pink polkadot Barbie bikini, Oscar’s winter cape, and Jakes tiny bomber jacket?” There are those of you who might frown; I worry that I’ll tumble in your esteem. And I can’t imagine that Cesar Millan will approve. But here it is: we had a doggy fashion show.

lambchop all in pink

houndstooth is always so elegrant on a hound!

From the cupboard I shlepped my carrier bag of doggy sweaters, frocks, jackets. Their wardrobe collection began innocently enough when I noticed them shivering. Jakes first sweater I stitched myself, piecing together bits of my husbands cast-offs. It took more time and attention than I cared to lavish, and the fittings weren’t pleasant, involving as they did growling and nipping. The final result may have been warm, but I’m not sure my fellow dog owners (and their dogs!) weren’t laughing at little Jake behind his back.

Searching better-fitting dog gear opened up a Pandora’s box of doggy fashion possibilities. I found fabulous designer doggy duds, at prices that could clear my sinuses; then I discovered that, as with myself, discount shops sell last-seasons styles for a pittance. Even the dollar stores had occasional offerings,and second hand shops proved to be a gold mine.

Like so many things in life, the slippery slope sneaks up–it wasn’t until I found myself carrying a tutu home in a chic little shopping bag– a small pink tutu with a hole for a tail–that I was aware of anything that might be considered….problematic. Soon I was toting home matching faux fur coats, little yellow slickers and rain booties, and tee-shirts emblazed with sports teams. I’ve discovered the worldwide web of canine clothing for outfits such as member of the wedding, santa hats and little black and yellow-striped bee costume for halloween; I decided that owning a red tartan skirt to match your doggies jackets is nothing to be ashamed of.

We sat back, had coffee, and watched our pups redefine the term “catwalk”. In their matching black and white houndstooth vests, parading around the room, changing into the little pink number, the wooley jumper, and the tiny SF Giants tee-shirts.

It all ended in tears, of course. The puppies got overtired and started fighting over frocks, growling, nipping just for the hell of it; I packed up leftovers for Nigel and Graham and sent them on their way. I firmly sent the pups to bed.

Then I put my feet up, and–basking in the post-meal glow–started thinking about my next party: both the menu, and what the dogs were going to wear.

and because the doggies really did, mostly, behave themselves, that is, no lasting damage, i whipped them up a pan of their favourite chicken liver treats. If you add seasoning: salt and pepper, as well as fresh rosemary, they are tasty enough for people to enjoy as well.

Doggy Livercake (with these treats you can get your dog to do ANYTHING, even wear embarassing, cute little outfits).

Yields: several weeks worth of treats

12 oz  chicken livers

1 egg

1/4 -1/2 garlic clove, chopped (i ran it past a veterinarian and dog trainer who approved of this small amount of garlic)

Whole grain flour–I like rye, or buckwheat, or whatever good grain I have on hand–as needed

1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

In a blender or food processor puree the liver until its gooshy, along with the egg and garlic. Slowly add the flour and whirl until it forms a batter-like consistency.

Pour the oil into a baking pan, then add the batter and smooth it evenly. Bake at 350 for about 20 minutes–or until the liver is no longer soft and liquidy, ie, it firms up.

Remove from oven; cut into bite size morsels and leave to cool.

Parcel up into freezer bags and stash for treats and training. Once defrosted, a bag will stay good for up to a week according to the dog trainer, but i like to serve them as fresh as i can.

we all have matching tartan coats for walkies,including marlena!

spicy pickles celery with shreds of tree ear fungus

One of the things i loved most in Taiwan was something i also loved in Beijing, and Japan, and at Danny Bowein’s Mission Chinese Food (sf)…….vegetable pickles! When i came back from japan i brought with me a whole book on japanese pickles as well as a whole suitcase filled with vacuum packed pickles!

To be honest I love pickles everywhere: in Germany I’m the child of sauerkraut, in Poland I was on national television holding a jar of dill pickles saying, i hope fetchingly, “ogorky kishonie” salt-cured pickles, the great grandfather of new york kosher dills!
but anyhow, getting back to asian pickles, because i am in a bit of an asian pickle phase, yet again, one triggered by each time i go to asia….i’m pickling all the time. but little pickles. short lightly brined vegetables, more than long fermented pickles.
Here is last nights pickle of choice, chosen because i got a HUGE bargain on celery heads at the market on New Years Eve and wanted to figure out a way to use it up before it went sad and soggy.

I loved my Taipei inspired pickles last night, so much, that i ate leftovers this morning for brekkie, and tonight am bringnig a jar to friends for dinner. and that means only ONE thing: i’ll have to make another batch which is so easy, no problem. and i’m still the posessor of a large quantity of bargain celery. (Note: its good without the cloud ear fungus, too: i love the fungus’ texture and i had some on hand; if you don’t, omit. the spicy pickled celery is brilliant without, too). (Cloud ear or tree fungus is available in Chinese grocers/food shops; but it dried, whole or already cut in strips.)

Spicy Pickled Celery and Cloud Ear Fungus
Makes quite a bit; lasts prob up to a week in the fridge, leftovers good with everything!

1 big bunch celery, trimmed and cut into diagonal slices
2-3 teaspoons sea salt
2-3 teaspoons sugar
Several big pinches cloud ear/tree fungus strips
1/2-2/3 cup rice vinegar (unseasoned)
1 tablespoon or to taste, chile bean sauce

1. Combine celery with salt and sugar and leave to marinate for 1-2 hours.
2. meanwhile: combine dried cloud ear fungus with warm water to cover. Leave to sit and when soft but still chewy crunchy, drain; about 30 minutes.
3. Pour off and discard the liquid that has accumulated from the celery; combine celery with the vinegar, chile bean paste, and rehydrated fungus. Leave to sit covered in the refridgerator until ready to eat. If it is too sour, add a little water; too bland add a little more vinegar, salt, sugar, or chile bean paste: getting the balance is up to you. When you have it right, you’ll recognize that happy sigh that comes out of your pickle-loving soul.

me in Polish TV saying: ogorkie kishonie!

what the inside pages look like….

If you go into the woods today…..well, take this book with you! Don’t pick any mushroom unless you have this book, it is the BEST book of mushrooms identification i know….to be honest i’m a world class sissy about foraging mushrooms, and to be honest i’m terrified when people say they know what they are doing, eat this you’ll be okay. I only eat mushrooms and funghi that are vetted by a professional.

Nonetheless: mushrooms: magical, delicious, gorgeous, and if very occasionally lethal, all the more deserving of respect. And this book is fascinating, and makes running around the forest or even just walking the doggies–my own daily treks through the forests and fields involve 3 lively jack russells, so i am always watching the ground where they scamper, leap, dig, yap, the whole dog thing.  but i’m getting off topic: the thing is: i see the mushrooms! and they are everywhere!

Having The Identification Guide to Mushrooms of Britain and Northern Europe, by Josephine Bacon has made my daily walks a total adventure. I go walkies, i see mushrooms, i look them up in the book. i’m not brave enough to eat any yet, and don’t know if i will be ever, but this book provides me with so much wonderful knowledge and discovery. its available on Amazon.

ps: it goes without saying that i love, adore, swoon over, beautiful wild mushrooms. i think a mushroom recipe is in order here. going through files right now, will post soon.

not completely tested, so you’ll need to fiddle with he liquid amounts, etc. but the whole fish and mushroom combo, soooo good.

Fish with Chanterelles

serves 4

Inspired by a fish and chanterelles dish at a restaurant/bistro, Lou Peyrol, in southwest france…..

4 red mullet fillets (loup de mer) (400g/about a lb)

Seasoning: salt, pepper to taste

a little flour for dusting

400 g/12 ounces or so chanterelles, or a mixure of chanterelles and other foresty mushrooms

1 shallot, chopped

2 tabpespoons  butter (or half butter, half olive oil)

65 ml/about 1/3 cup dry white wine

juice of 1 lemon

75ml/1/2 cup fish or chicken stock/broth

2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

2 tablespoons chervil leaves

Mix fish with a little salt pepper; set aside while you do everything else. Rub with a few drops of lemon juice, then dust with flour, shake off excess.

Clean chanterelles, trim off rough edges, and cut into large pieces.

Lightly saute the shallot in the butter until softened, then add the mushrooms, cook about 5 minutes, then remove from the pan. Pour in the wine, raise the heat until it reduces by about half, then add the fish stock. Season with lemon juice, add more stock/broth as you need for a brothy jus, and finally sprinkle in the parsley. Set aside and keep warm.

Heat the pan to medium high, the place remaining butter in pan and add the fish, skin side down. Cook over medium heat for about 5-8 minutes or until it is just about cooked through. Turn over carefully to cook lightly.

Warm the mushrooms through. Pour a little bit of the sauce in the bottom of the shallow soup bowl, place a few spoonfuls of the sauteed mushrooms on top, then a fish fillet on each. Drizzle a little more of the sauce on top and around the edge, then sprinkle with chervil and serve right away.

]]> http://marlenaspieler.com/?feed=rss2&p=270 0 http://marlenaspieler.com/?p=260 http://marlenaspieler.com/?p=260#comments Thu, 27 Dec 2012 15:35:30 +0000 Marlena http://marlenaspieler.com/?p=260

Trying to find an idea for my chicken--which was waiting for me patiently in the kitchen--I put on my fake leopardskin heels and started to dance

I had a chicken in my kitchen, a beautiful plump chicken; and in my head swarmed ideas for its roasting. Alas, i was too unfocused: lemon and olives, smoked paprika, cinnamon and cumin,what about a streamlined Peruvian pachamanca ?

Who could decide? my normal ways of pursuing taste have abandoned me, I gotta find new ways. I went down to the kitchen, put on my fake leopardskin heels, and started to dance.

As I danced I started to feel happier, and soon I was in my cabinet of Asian flavours where, since visiting Taipei I have been spending a lot of time, gathering ingredients. And so I made a paste of preserved tofu, garlic, ginger, spices, and rubbed it all over the bird. Let it sit a little while to enjoy the evening air, while i danced a little longer, then into the oven to roast!

Here are the exact-ish amounts: it served the two of us, with leftovers for 3 small chicken-loving doggies.

1 whole chicken, med-small in size

4 cloves garlic, chopped

About 1-2 tablespoons chopped ginger

Pinch five spice

Pinch cumin

4 squares chile-fermented bean curd,mashed into a paste

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Drizzle sesame oil

2 tablespoons ginger wine or rice wine/mirin and a little extra ginger

1 clementine, cut into wedges

Coriander/cilantro to serve
Place chicken in a roasting pan just large enough to fit it.

Combine the garlic, ginger, five-spice and cumin, with the preserved tofu, soy sauce, sesame oil, and either ginger wine or mirin plus a little extra chopped ginger. Rub all over the chicken inside and out. Stick the clementine wedges into the cavity of the chicken. Set aside to marinate a bit–30 minutes is good, 2 hours is better.

Heat over to 400F; place chicken in, roast in high heat until browned, then reduce head to about 325 and continue roasting until its cooked through–usually takes about 1 hour 20 minutes in my oven.

Remove from heat, place chicken on plate, covered with foil while you make pan sauce.

Spoon off or drain off fat from pan drippings, then place roasting pan on stove top and add either water, broth or more wine, and cook, quickly, until pan juices or a nice intense jus forms. Pour the juices from the roasted chicken into the pan, and remove the clementine wedges, squeezing them into the pan juices too.

Serve the chicken either whole, or cut into serving pieces with its jus, sprinkled with coriander leaves/cilantro.

the pan juices are so savoury,the meat tender