I fell in love with fermented tofu in Taipei last winter. At several chefs events there was an east-west attitude being promoted, with chefs saying: lets use fermented tofu like the western cheese! both are fermented umami bombs, delicious combined with vegetables, meat, fish, sauces, and so on.
One taste, though, and I understood fermented tofu immediately: it was full of that funky fermentated flavour that long ago seduced me into the world of stinky cheeses, but it was also: strikingly unique. more like miso, to my taste, and like both miso and cheese, fermented tofu comes in a wild wide range of flavours: strong smelly spicy sweet: fermented plain, with chillies, with whole soybeans or simply clear liquid, or…..like this treasure jar i found in Taipei’s military dependents culture cafe/shop, pineapple-fermented with whole beans. My friend, who grew up in the military dependents village, said: this is very Taiwanese: the pineapple, the whole beans. What do i use them with? i asked. which is a wonderful way to get recipes.
With fish. delicious with fish.
was the answer.
but when i got home i opened my jar, and began lifting out squares of fermented tofu, mashing it, adding it to marinades, vegetable stir-fries (esp with green leaves such as spinach or chard), even to fried rice. Slightly sweet, the little beans are like little morself of umami, the marinade that cloaks the soft pungent tofu studded with pieces of candied pinapple. By the time i was nearing the end of the jar, i hadn’t used it with fish.
So, inspired by Taipei, where I also found my beloved sweet herb, Thai basil, flung into many dishes, each time I inhaled its perfume bringing a smile to my face…..i whipped up this dish.
Taipei-Inspired Fermented Tofu-Fish, with Thai Sweet Basil
Serves 2 (double for 4, etc)
2 medium sized fish fillets: i used plaice, with the skin on, though cod would also be good: any mild white-fleshed fish
About 2 squares fermented tofu, preferable pinapple–if its not available use plain or with whole beans: don’t use the chile-spiced fermented tofu as the dish is meant to be mild
(optional: if using plain rather than pineapple-fermented tofu, add a generous pinch or two of sugar)
About 2 teaspoons thinly julienned or coarsely shredded fresh ginger
Dash soy sauce
Sesame oil brushed in nonstick pan
A few leaves of ramps/bear garlic, or thinly sliced tender leek/or chopped spring/green onions
Small handful Thai basil leaves, coarsely torn
Rinse fish in cold water then pat dry; place in bowl and cover with mashed tofu, ginger, soy sauce.Let sit about 10 minutes.
Heat nonstick frying pan to a medium heat, brush with small amount sesame oil, then place the fish, still covered with its marinade, into the pan (skin side down if using fish that has skin). Cook over medium heat for a few minutes, until fish just begins to firm up, then flip over onto the other side, add the ramps or other green onions, cover pan with a lid, and turn off the heat. Leave for 5-10 minutes, letting fish steam in its own juices.
Serve hot/warm, sprinkled with torn thai basil leaves.
With over 70 cookbook titles (including contributions) to her credit, Marlena conjures up flavours and dishes from the Mediterranean to Mexico, California to France to the Italian islands and single subjects such as chili peppers, olive oil, mushrooms, to a book on classic Jewish food from all over the world.
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