After Michelle Brachet presented a tasting session on Cognac–her book and column in a Chinese wine publication (in other words, her expertise) being the reason she was at the Gourmand Awards)–anyhow, after our tasting there was still a bit of Cognac left in the bottle. And since it was Frapin: oh so beautiful, fragrant and evocative–and since we had been walking distance of the sea for several days already but hadn’t spent any time on the beach, Michelle decided that in the sand, next to the sea, was exactly where we should finish up the Cognac.
She coralled a small posse of myself, the vibrantly hair-coloured Bruna from Brazil and James McIntosh from Northern Ireland who is also the pin-up cookbook western cooking guy of China.
The weather was warm and pleasant, sunny but not so fiercely hot that we would feel fried sitting on the sand.
Since Yantai Wine Bay Resort is on a slight hill, to get there we just had to follow a cobbled stone path headed downward, past various galleries and artisans
There were gardens with bridges over small lakes, one garden themed Ye Olde English, another with interesting sculptures, such as a much-larger than life bright orange squirrel that we all fell in love with. Once we reached the sand we discovered a row of cabanas looking every so like a beach resort in the UK, selling all the things you might need for the beach: sunscreen, inflatibles, sunhats, as well as spicy noodles and bags of chewy dried fish treats. Then we found the bumper cars! Of course we wanted to ride them, but alas we were too tall–ie adult– so we could only watch the children bump and crash their cars, screaming with glee. But it was okay, we had our Cognac. Then James decided we needed ice cream: I mean what is a holiday at the beach without licking an ice cream on a stick, trying furiously to keep up with it’s melting as droplets run down your arm and you don’t want to miss a single delicious swipe of the tongue? Michelle and Bruna chose vanilla ice cream, covered in chocolate and stuffed on the inside with a jammy fruity mixture. I chose a chocolate fudgesical-looking ice lolly and despite James’ warning: i know i know it looks like chocolate but its probably some sort of sweetened bean flavour, it was, in fact: chocolate! wonderful chocolate! After last years ice cream on the streets of Beijing I had decided never again. But here we were on the beach in Yantai, and really: i was eating the bed fudgsical ever! We plopped ourselves down in the damp sand on the edge of the shore and stretched our feet into the little waves as we sipped our Frapin and licked our ice creams. The air smelled of the sea, the soft sand was like California or the Mediterranean, the misty half sunshine half fogginess reminded me of Lima, Peru, the clear water was like Mexico or Malaysia. Yantai beach is very long, miles long, and very beautiful; along the way are promenades and a few hotels–more are being built. Right now the locals seemed to be at that marvel-at-the-miracle stage; they wandered along the promenade, strolled the sands, ate the ice cream and gazed out to the sea. Just as we were doing.To the right of us was a pier that jutted into the water in what at first seemed a serendipitous way but on closer inspection was shaped like a huge musical clef note, finished only a few months earlier in honor of the developer’s son’s wedding. And because we were happy, and possibly also because of the Cognac, we got philosophical–possibly a result of the Cognac–thinking about how the beaches, the sea, how they are all connected, all people of the world touching the sea, on a beach somewhere…..
But gazing out to sea, before i could wax too lyrical about how we are all one, no matter where we might find ourselves, I saw a shadow of mountains on the horizon, just the other side of the channel. “Whats that James?” I asked. “That?” James answered; “is North Korea”.
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