Monthly Archives: July 2014

Indian-Spiced “Socca”

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The other day I was whipping up Mridula Baljekar’s  kela na sambhariya, or spicy stuffed bananas, and I had leftover chickpea flour filling; usually when I have extra spicy chickpea flour I add a little water, make a batter, then throw in vegetables for pakoras: chopped or sliced onions for my fave onion bhajis, whole leaves of spinach or mustard greens for spicy spinach fritters, sliced zucchini or sweet potato are wonderful too. This time, however, I don’t know: I didn’t feel like chopping vegetables, I didn’t even feel like eating pakoras. What I felt like was a thin pancake, something on the order of socca, the olive oil-browned chickpea pancake of Nice, France.

My mixture of toasted chickpea flour mixed with cumin, coriander, chile and cilantro was ready, i just stirred in enough water to make a pancake batter-like consistency, heated a tablespoon or two of evoo in a nonstick frying pan, and ladled in the batter. It cooked on one side, I flipped it and it cooked on its second side. It was delicious, tasting at once of France, at once of the Mediterranean, and at the same time, like having dinner with Mridula.

Indian Spiced Socca

1/2 cup/2 oz/50 g chickpea flour (besan)

1/2-1 teaspoon ground cumin

1/2 teaspoon ground coriander seed

About 1/2 fresh chile, depending on its heat and your preference: a mixture of both green and red looks nice, but you can use either, or none, as you like

1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1-2 tablespoons coarsely chopped coriander/cilantro leaves

About 3 tablespoons evoo

Szechuan-ish Cucumber Salad: Spicy, Garlicky,Wonderful

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Szechuan-ish Cucumber Salad
i’d like to say serves 4, but two of us ate it for lunch

1 english cucumber or 4-5 small persian/japanese cucumbers, unpeeled, and cut into spears about 3-4 inches long, half to 1 inch thick
1 teaspoon salt
1 big fat garlic cloves (or two modest ones) chopped
1 teaspoon Chinese hot bean paste, or ordinary bean paste/brown bean sauce/or even miso
2 teaspoons to 1 1/2 tablespoons Szechuan chile paste, the kind that is deliciously oily–amount depends upon heat of your brand
1/2 teaspoon coarsely crushed toasted szechuan peppercorns
1/2 teaspoon wine vinegar

Toss together the cucumber, salt and garlic; mix well and leave for about an hour.
Add everthing else, mix well, and eat or chill until ready to eat.

Optional: add a spoonful of chile oil, either commercial or from the chile-oil-paste

A Mountain of Carrots, One Lovely Puree, Two Very Different Cool Carrot Soups

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Those who know my husband, know he can’t resist a bargain. Thats how we ended up, this evening, with our kitchen table piled high with carrots. No room in the fridge, which is a long story in itself because our fridge is the tiniest mini-fridge in existance and our owning/depending on it rather than a nice big ordinary fridge is the stuff spun from bad decisions made under the influence of jetlag.

So we have a mountain of carrots, and we’re having a heatwave, and we need to eat things quickly before they rot. Until the temperature dips back down to normal our lives are a race against time–the time it takes for stuff to decline from moist-plumpness into decay.

Which finds us tonight eating carrot soup. My husband has fond memories of carrot soup I made for him, but it involves a myriad of other vegetables, too. I just wanted to simmer some carrots and get out of the kitchen before I passed out. We do not have air conditioning.

I thought: a nice COOL carrot soup, one as easy to prepare and it is soothing and refreshing to spoon up. I had no idea where the flavour direction would go, however, so I started by making a light little puree of carrots; after that, I reasoned, I could turn it into a soup.

To start, I simmered a lot of sliced carrots and a small handful of rice with a mixture of water and chicken broth until tender. The small amount of rice thickens the vegetable lightly, without interfering in the character of the vegetable, or making the soup too heavy, like flour or potato can do. Next, I pureed the carrots, stock and rice until smooth; I used a hand held stick blender but you could use a food processor or jar blender if that is what you have in your kitchen.

When I tasted the lovely oranged-coloured mixture, I thought: garlic. (This might have just been me, I usually think: garlic), so i stirred in one chopped garlic clove. The soup was hot, the garlic didn’t exactly cook but its raw fiery taste was tamed a bit.

I let it cool to room temperature and then decided how to finish it off. It was hard to decide, in that way when the weather is really really hot, and it is hard to think or decide about anything….and while there were only two of us, I had enough for at least 4 bowlfuls. We could eat it two nights running, flavoured completely differently each night.

The first night, we ate it at cool room temperature with a bit of cream,  swirled but not completely stirred in, as well as a scattering of fresh tarragon and some chopped toasted hazelnuts. It was wonderful, sipped in the garden as the evening cooled somewhat.

Carrot Puree:

If you want to make the carrot puree, and do as we did, eat half one way and half the other, here is the basic recipe; if you want to make the basic carrot puree and then come up with your own way to go seasoning and flavouring and character wise, here is the basic recipe. Otherwise, each of the recipes include this step of cooking and pureeing the carrots.

About 10 nice plump firm carrots, peeled and sliced

2 -3 tablespoons raw rice

About 1 litre/6 cups liquid: I used a mixture of half water and half chicken stock

1 clove garlic

Combine the carrots with the liquid and rice; bring to the boil, reduce heat and cook until the carrots are tender and the rice is soft, about 10 minutes.

Puree using a food processor, blender or hand held stick blender.

Chill until ready to use.

Creamy Cool Carrot Soup, with Tarragon and Hazelnuts

Serves 4

About 10 nice plump firm carrots, peeled and sliced

2 -3 tablespoons raw rice

About 1 litre/6 cups liquid: I used a mixture of half water and half chicken stock

1 clove garlic

Salt and pepper to taste

About 1/2 pint heavy whipping cream

About 1 tablespoon fresh tarragon, coarsely chopped

About 4 tablespoons toasted, chopped, hazelnuts (see end of recipe for directions)

Combine carrots with the liquid in a saucepan and bring to the boil. Cook over medium heat until the carrots are tender and the rice is soft, about 10 minutes. Puree until smooth in either a blender or food processor, or use a hand-held blender.

Leave to cool or chill, and ladle into bowls, then pour or spoon in a few tablespoons of cream per bowl, and sprinkle generously with the tarragon and hazelnuts.

Cool Carrot Soup with Turkish Flavours: Cumin, Dill, and Yogurt

Serves 4

About 10 nice plump firm carrots, peeled and sliced

2 -3 tablespoons raw rice

About 1 litre/6 cups liquid: I used a mixture of half water and half chicken stock

1 clove garlic

About 6 fl oz/ 175 ml Greek yogurt, enough for several tablespoons per bowl

Large pinch ground cumin

Large pinch smoked paprika

2-3 tablespoons coarsely chopped dill

A drizzle of evoo per bowlful

Ladle the cool/chilled carrot puree into bowls and top each with a big spoonful or two of Greek yogurt. Sprinkle the top with cumin, paprika, and dill, then drizzle with evoo.

Sit outside in the garden and enjoy.

It Starts with a Plate of Dumplings: Beijing, China 2014, World Gourmand Bookfair and XIX Gourmand Awards

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These are great dumplings: first of all, sniff the air around them: that fresh starchy smell of just-steamed noodle: inside are spiced leafy greens chopped finely into an intense vegetable paste; next to it on the plate you see a puddle of Szechuan chile paste, already smudged because i’ve dipped the first dumpling (see the empty space on the plate) into it. On the other side of the plate is cloud ear fungus though it might have been braised fresh shiitakes, simmered in its savoury sauce . But more about dinner a bit later in the blog: How I got to this plate of dumplings goes like this:

19th-28th May 2014 The World Gourmand Bookfair and Best in the World Awards for cookbooks, food television, food and drink books were to be held in the rural-ish outer borough of Bejing (fifth ring road) called Daxing.

In recent years, Gourmand Bookfair and Awards Ceremony have been held in Paris where it is known as Paris Bookfair–last year it was held memorably, thrillingly, at The Louvre (where I made chopped liver on the cooking demo stage but thats the subject of another story). But Gourmand has moved around the world at various times–I discovered them way back when in Perigueux when I was sent by the BBC to interview Chinese cookbook author and tv cooking guru, Ken Hom, and have been somewhat of a devotee since, attending the events in Barcelona, the Loire, as well as an amazing gathering in a  completely different part of Bejing way back in 2009 where the Peruvians brought what seemed like vats of Pisco to what became a week-long party and the breakfast buffet was so filled with Chinese delicacies just visiting each morning was a lesson in regional Chinese cookery.  One year, marking Malaysia’s Truly Asia tourist campaign, the awards were held there, and journalists were taken to the far reaches of Malaysia, to open-air  palaces in jungles that we needed to get to by taking a boat upriver, eating tuna curry in a Terrenganu marketplace, and swimming in water so clear it was like swimming in a fish bowl, only it was for real: we were with the blue and yellow and rainbow of fish….just us, together in the deep blue sea. Oh, and learning the secrets to making a perfect rendang, too. Then there is the annual Frankfurt Bookfair in Frankfurt, Germany,  where Gourmand throws a party at Villa Bonn; once,  the potato gratin they served was so good I put its recipe into my cookbook Yummy Potatoes (Chronicle Books).

While I had no cookbook nominated for an award nor foreign rights to sell, ie nothing to draw me practicality-wise to the event  (and justify the expense of the trip), emails trickled in luring me: friends around the world who were going, up for awards, participating in the bookfair. Gourmand is the only world event, where material in all languages can be submitted and is awarded. There were little teasers to the schedule: the watermelon museum visit would co-incide with a watermelon festival and visit to Mr Song’s Melon Garden (post to come). (Daxing is China’s watermelon capital, famous for its sweet juicy melons).  There was promise of a Szechuan food festival, and you know, no one does Peking duck the way they do it in Beijing. I thought about the spicy cucumber salad and the dan dan noodles (jiang jiang mein).  I changed my mind: who needs an award (this time). It would simply get in the way by making me feel anxious ahead of time, and if i didn’t win, disappointed after. I would only take the fun stuff and go along for the ride!

Gourmand World Cookbook Awards’  and Paris/Beijing Cookbook Fair founder, Edouard Cointreau lives in Beijing where he is, among so many other titles, President of Honour of China Food Television as well as President of World Association of Food TV Producers, hence the choice of Beijing as a venue. Instead of the sophisticated, international hub of central Bejing, though, the gathering was to be held in Daxing, a rural district on the outskirts of the Capital. Daxing is local, authentic and utterly lacking in any pretentiousness. In the not too distant future, Daxing will have its own international mega-airport, which, combined with its space for offices, factories and international business; no doubt its quaintness and quietness will fade

But in the meantime, it was so unspoiled. So unspoiled. It was essential Chinese culture, circa 2014; my guess from the way people looked at me, and most of us, and how caring they were for our perceived delicacy, most had never seen a foreigner up close and in person before.  I felt like the belle of the ball. People were friendly, they were intrigued, they offered to help, they stared, they took out their phones for selfies posed with this exotic creature who had landed in their midst.  Our hotel which had never hosted foreigners before and they had a special group from the university hospitality and language dept to translate the needs and wants of these people who are so different.

Wherever we went, people were amazed. Life stopped the moment we walked in, and by we, I really mean me, because it happened even when I wasn’t in a group. My blond hair was like a flag, so different from their own, my pink and big red lips, they didn’t know what to make of me. They wanted their pictures taken to show family and friends: Look what/who I MET!  I started to really feel like a celebrity, especially when women would stroke my blonde hair and say: “preh-teeeee”. I fell in love with them, each and every one of them.

here i am at a boutique, the salegirls all wanting a picture with me!

I would look at these gorgeous women, with their gleaming black hair and usually trim figures, so young looking and energetic, and think: oh you guys, do you have any idea how adorable YOU are? any idea how LOVELY you make me feel?

a grandma on a bike saw ME taking HER picture, was burst into the biggest smile of delight, as you can see!

at the Great Wall, such a hot hot day, fanning myself to cool off and having my picture taken....

Meanwhile, back to the start.

I landed in Beijing’s Capital Airport and by the time I got to Daxing, Bejing being a huge city with a big traffic problem, it was time for dinner.

It started with the dumplings, and proceeded…..on to the next page, the next blog entry.

Cumin-Scented Cauliflower with Tahina, Disguised as a Fauvist Painting (almost)

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Cauliflower, sauteed with cumin, and served with garlicky, lemony tahina sauce is a classic Middle Eastern meze, but i’ve added a few embellishments here which makes the whole plateful  resemble a fauvist painting; of course the bright yellow plates help a great deal in that direction.

In Israel, a plate of anything with tahina will bring a garnish of olive oil, poured in a swirl, and a scattering of pickles. Usually it will be pickled cucumbers…..maybe peppers…….and so I’ve served the classic Middle East salad of tahina with cauliflower with pickles–but in this case, decorated all prettily with bits of pickled turnip–check out my pickle page, or buy a jar at an Arab or Middle Eastern grocers. The bright pink of the pickles looks jewel-like when it is cut into small pieces and balances the beige-ness of the cauli-tahina, while the sharp tanginess of these turnips perfectly balances the richness of the tahina and the blandness of the vegetable.

After I scattered the pickles, I looked at the plate. It needed something fresh, again, in the spirit of the Middle East where it might be a little parsley or cilantro/coriander. But when I went out to the garden to snip a little bit, the scent of fresh oregano pulled me towards it, so I plucked a few sprigs and put it on the plate. It was so good with the tahina, cauliflower and pickles. I felt like i was conducting a little orchestra of tastes and colours by now. I looked at the plate again, then thought: a little green onion? Instead I grabbed a leek and chopped a little bit, then scattered it around–the leek was great because it had a kind of crunchy, dry, texture, and didn’t blend into the rest of the ingredients the way the more moist green onion would have.

1 medium sized cauliflower, cut into bite-sized and smaller florets

2 tablespoons evoo, or as desired

Several generous pinches of ground cumin

Salt to taste

1-2 garlic cloves, finely chopped or crushed

About 1/2 cup/ 125ml  tahini

Juice of 1-2 lemons

3-4 tablespoons water, or as needed

A generous pinch of ground coriander seed

A few drops of a delicious preferably garlicky hot sauce, any ethnicity will do–I use a Chinese or Vietnamese garlic-chile sauce often, which works really well; other times? Cholula!

Garnish–all optional, but pretty:

Several slices pink pickled turnips, storebought or made from my blog, cut into tiny jewel-like bits, or pickled cucumber or mixed vegetables (giardiniera), diced

A few sprigs fresh oregano, and a few leaves to strew around the dish

A little bit of chopped leek, again, for sprinkling

Precook the cauliflower in the microwave or steamed until it is nearly tender. Remove; you can do this ahead of time or not, as you like. Heat about a tablespoon of the olive oil in a heavy frying pan until moderately hot, and add the cauliflower florets, cooking as you saute them, sprinkling them with cumin and salt as you go. You want to lightly brown them a little, which should only take a few minutes.

Remove from the heat. This, too, you can do ahead of time, up to a few days.

Make the tahina sauce: combine the garlic with the tahini and mix well, then stir in the lemon juice; the mixture will thicken considerably, then add a few tablespoons water, one at a time, until it thins out to the consistency you wish, which should be like thick paste. Taste for seasoning and add salt, cumin, coriander, and hot sauce to taste.

Arrange the tahina sauce on a plate and arrange the cauliflower on top of it; alternatively but less prettily, you can mix it all together.

Garnish with the pickles, a swirl of the remaining evoo, and serve with lovely fresh pita or crusty French/Italian/levain bread…..