All posts by Marlena Spieler

Oscar in his furry lined all-weather coat, red leash.....

my little lambchop in her "sound of music" Austrian felt cape

Since I am loathe to end the delight of dinner, I don’t plan after-meal entertainment; you’ll never hear me say: “Eat up so we can have FUN”! On the other hand, I can’t say that unplanned post-meal entertainments chez moi NEVER happen– ABBA sing-alongs, re-enacting broadway musicals, or the occasional conga line that winds its way around my table, out the door, then through the neighborhood.

So today, when Nigel and Graham came to lunch, it wasn’t as if I had planned a doggy fashion show–what I planned was a delicious menu. Still, once the lightbulb went off in my mind, mid-meal, there was no stopping me.

We sipped Champagne and noshed crisp grissini wrapped with in thinly sliced salami, eggplant roasted with tomatoes and fresh basil was slicked with olive oil, reeking deliciously of garlic. Spears of red endive spears held tarragon chicken salad, cucumber slices were topped with goats cheese and a leaf of fresh mint, and because I can’t entertain without olives, ever, we had a bowl of oil cured black ones.

Taking a Mediterranean turn, i stirred up creamy soupy risotto, with lashings of gorgonzola and handfuls of aromatic Thai basil. So happily unexpected, captivating. Next I brought out a ceramic casserole of tandoori-ish lamb, on a bed of onions, surrounded by spicy meatballs–thats kofta to you and I, and a little a plate of east-west salad leaves lavished with lemon vinaigrette, to brighten up the richness.

Dessert was a frolic of flavor, an array of tiny sweet things: pureed chestnut mousse in espresso cups, mini “Marlena-messes”:broken meringues with whipped cream, frozen blackberries (which i had foraged in the summer and stashed in the deep freeze),with a dusting of lavender sugar. There were teeny baby-scoops sundaes topped with candied ginger and its syrup, and deliciously bitter chocolates to go with the coffee.

But wait: I haven’t yet introduced you to my dogs:Jake, Oscar and Lambchop–three Jack Russells. Jake is my chunky little man of a dog; small but solid–pick him up and he feels like a sack of potatoes. He’d like to get under the right weight for riding in the passenger part of the airplane, but he loves his grub too much. Lambchop, his daughter, is small and wiry: somewhere on her family tree is a Yorkie or chihuahua. A little child admired her recently, saying: “She has girly eyes”: rimmed with black as if eyeliner, dark lashes that frame big brown eyes to melt your heart. Sadly, our Lambchop is resolutely a member of “the bad girls’ club”, taking on the biggest ferocious dogs, growling like a possessed gremlin if anyone tries to take her bone, or refusing to move regardless of coaxing. At puppy class graduation it was recommended that “she could benefit from further training”. Then there is Oscar, a good ol’ boy, at least 16 years old, who we rehomed/rescued last year and are so happy he’s part of our home.

Nigel and Graham were smitten. Somewhere inbetween dessert and the coffee, I thought: “Wow, I wonder……” Then I asked a question that  I never dreamt I’d ask another adult: “Would you like to see Lambchop’s little pink polkadot Barbie bikini, Oscar’s winter cape, and Jakes tiny bomber jacket?” There are those of you who might frown; I worry that I’ll tumble in your esteem. And I can’t imagine that Cesar Millan will approve. But here it is: we had a doggy fashion show.

lambchop all in pink

houndstooth is always so elegrant on a hound!

From the cupboard I shlepped my carrier bag of doggy sweaters, frocks, jackets. Their wardrobe collection began innocently enough when I noticed them shivering. Jakes first sweater I stitched myself, piecing together bits of my husbands cast-offs. It took more time and attention than I cared to lavish, and the fittings weren’t pleasant, involving as they did growling and nipping. The final result may have been warm, but I’m not sure my fellow dog owners (and their dogs!) weren’t laughing at little Jake behind his back.

Searching better-fitting dog gear opened up a Pandora’s box of doggy fashion possibilities. I found fabulous designer doggy duds, at prices that could clear my sinuses; then I discovered that, as with myself, discount shops sell last-seasons styles for a pittance. Even the dollar stores had occasional offerings,and second hand shops proved to be a gold mine.

Like so many things in life, the slippery slope sneaks up–it wasn’t until I found myself carrying a tutu home in a chic little shopping bag– a small pink tutu with a hole for a tail–that I was aware of anything that might be considered….problematic. Soon I was toting home matching faux fur coats, little yellow slickers and rain booties, and tee-shirts emblazed with sports teams. I’ve discovered the worldwide web of canine clothing for outfits such as member of the wedding, santa hats and little black and yellow-striped bee costume for halloween; I decided that owning a red tartan skirt to match your doggies jackets is nothing to be ashamed of.

We sat back, had coffee, and watched our pups redefine the term “catwalk”. In their matching black and white houndstooth vests, parading around the room, changing into the little pink number, the wooley jumper, and the tiny SF Giants tee-shirts.

It all ended in tears, of course. The puppies got overtired and started fighting over frocks, growling, nipping just for the hell of it; I packed up leftovers for Nigel and Graham and sent them on their way. I firmly sent the pups to bed.

Then I put my feet up, and–basking in the post-meal glow–started thinking about my next party: both the menu, and what the dogs were going to wear.

and because the doggies really did, mostly, behave themselves, that is, no lasting damage, i whipped them up a pan of their favourite chicken liver treats. If you add seasoning: salt and pepper, as well as fresh rosemary, they are tasty enough for people to enjoy as well.

Doggy Livercake (with these treats you can get your dog to do ANYTHING, even wear embarassing, cute little outfits).

Yields: several weeks worth of treats

12 oz  chicken livers

1 egg

1/4 -1/2 garlic clove, chopped (i ran it past a veterinarian and dog trainer who approved of this small amount of garlic)

Whole grain flour–I like rye, or buckwheat, or whatever good grain I have on hand–as needed

1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

In a blender or food processor puree the liver until its gooshy, along with the egg and garlic. Slowly add the flour and whirl until it forms a batter-like consistency.

Pour the oil into a baking pan, then add the batter and smooth it evenly. Bake at 350 for about 20 minutes–or until the liver is no longer soft and liquidy, ie, it firms up.

Remove from oven; cut into bite size morsels and leave to cool.

Parcel up into freezer bags and stash for treats and training. Once defrosted, a bag will stay good for up to a week according to the dog trainer, but i like to serve them as fresh as i can.

we all have matching tartan coats for walkies,including marlena!

spicy pickles celery with shreds of tree ear fungus

One of the things i loved most in Taiwan was something i also loved in Beijing, and Japan, and at Danny Bowein’s Mission Chinese Food (sf)…….vegetable pickles! When i came back from japan i brought with me a whole book on japanese pickles as well as a whole suitcase filled with vacuum packed pickles!

To be honest I love pickles everywhere: in Germany I’m the child of sauerkraut, in Poland I was on national television holding a jar of dill pickles saying, i hope fetchingly, “ogorky kishonie” salt-cured pickles, the great grandfather of new york kosher dills!
but anyhow, getting back to asian pickles, because i am in a bit of an asian pickle phase, yet again, one triggered by each time i go to asia….i’m pickling all the time. but little pickles. short lightly brined vegetables, more than long fermented pickles.
Here is last nights pickle of choice, chosen because i got a HUGE bargain on celery heads at the market on New Years Eve and wanted to figure out a way to use it up before it went sad and soggy.

I loved my Taipei inspired pickles last night, so much, that i ate leftovers this morning for brekkie, and tonight am bringnig a jar to friends for dinner. and that means only ONE thing: i’ll have to make another batch which is so easy, no problem. and i’m still the posessor of a large quantity of bargain celery. (Note: its good without the cloud ear fungus, too: i love the fungus’ texture and i had some on hand; if you don’t, omit. the spicy pickled celery is brilliant without, too). (Cloud ear or tree fungus is available in Chinese grocers/food shops; but it dried, whole or already cut in strips.)

Spicy Pickled Celery and Cloud Ear Fungus
Makes quite a bit; lasts prob up to a week in the fridge, leftovers good with everything!

1 big bunch celery, trimmed and cut into diagonal slices
2-3 teaspoons sea salt
2-3 teaspoons sugar
Several big pinches cloud ear/tree fungus strips
1/2-2/3 cup rice vinegar (unseasoned)
1 tablespoon or to taste, chile bean sauce

1. Combine celery with salt and sugar and leave to marinate for 1-2 hours.
2. meanwhile: combine dried cloud ear fungus with warm water to cover. Leave to sit and when soft but still chewy crunchy, drain; about 30 minutes.
3. Pour off and discard the liquid that has accumulated from the celery; combine celery with the vinegar, chile bean paste, and rehydrated fungus. Leave to sit covered in the refridgerator until ready to eat. If it is too sour, add a little water; too bland add a little more vinegar, salt, sugar, or chile bean paste: getting the balance is up to you. When you have it right, you’ll recognize that happy sigh that comes out of your pickle-loving soul.

me in Polish TV saying: ogorkie kishonie!

If you go into the woods today…..well, take this book with you! Don’t pick any mushroom unless you have this book, it is the BEST book of mushrooms identification i know….to be honest i’m a world class sissy about foraging mushrooms, and to be honest i’m terrified when people say they know what they are doing, eat this you’ll be okay. I only eat mushrooms and funghi that are vetted by a professional.

Nonetheless: mushrooms: magical, delicious, gorgeous, and if very occasionally lethal, all the more deserving of respect. And this book is fascinating, and makes running around the forest or even just walking the doggies–my own daily treks through the forests and fields involve 3 lively jack russells, so i am always watching the ground where they scamper, leap, dig, yap, the whole dog thing.  but i’m getting off topic: the thing is: i see the mushrooms! and they are everywhere!

Having The Identification Guide to Mushrooms of Britain and Northern Europe, by Josephine Bacon has made my daily walks a total adventure. I go walkies, i see mushrooms, i look them up in the book. i’m not brave enough to eat any yet, and don’t know if i will be ever, but this book provides me with so much wonderful knowledge and discovery. its available on Amazon.

ps: it goes without saying that i love, adore, swoon over, beautiful wild mushrooms. i think a mushroom recipe is in order here. going through files right now, will post soon.

not completely tested, so you’ll need to fiddle with he liquid amounts, etc. but the whole fish and mushroom combo, soooo good.

Fish with Chanterelles

serves 4

Inspired by a fish and chanterelles dish at a restaurant/bistro, Lou Peyrol, in southwest france…..

4 red mullet fillets (loup de mer) (400g/about a lb)

Seasoning: salt, pepper to taste

a little flour for dusting

400 g/12 ounces or so chanterelles, or a mixure of chanterelles and other foresty mushrooms

1 shallot, chopped

2 tabpespoons  butter (or half butter, half olive oil)

65 ml/about 1/3 cup dry white wine

juice of 1 lemon

75ml/1/2 cup fish or chicken stock/broth

2 tablespoon finely chopped parsley

2 tablespoons chervil leaves

Mix fish with a little salt pepper; set aside while you do everything else. Rub with a few drops of lemon juice, then dust with flour, shake off excess.

Clean chanterelles, trim off rough edges, and cut into large pieces.

Lightly saute the shallot in the butter until softened, then add the mushrooms, cook about 5 minutes, then remove from the pan. Pour in the wine, raise the heat until it reduces by about half, then add the fish stock. Season with lemon juice, add more stock/broth as you need for a brothy jus, and finally sprinkle in the parsley. Set aside and keep warm.

Heat the pan to medium high, the place remaining butter in pan and add the fish, skin side down. Cook over medium heat for about 5-8 minutes or until it is just about cooked through. Turn over carefully to cook lightly.

Warm the mushrooms through. Pour a little bit of the sauce in the bottom of the shallow soup bowl, place a few spoonfuls of the sauteed mushrooms on top, then a fish fillet on each. Drizzle a little more of the sauce on top and around the edge, then sprinkle with chervil and serve right away.

Trying to find an idea for my chicken--which was waiting for me patiently in the kitchen--I put on my fake leopardskin heels and started to dance

I had a chicken in my kitchen, a beautiful plump chicken; and in my head swarmed ideas for its roasting. Alas, i was too unfocused: lemon and olives, smoked paprika, cinnamon and cumin,what about a streamlined Peruvian pachamanca ?

Who could decide? my normal ways of pursuing taste have abandoned me, I gotta find new ways. I went down to the kitchen, put on my fake leopardskin heels, and started to dance.

As I danced I started to feel happier, and soon I was in my cabinet of Asian flavours where, since visiting Taipei I have been spending a lot of time, gathering ingredients. And so I made a paste of preserved tofu, garlic, ginger, spices, and rubbed it all over the bird. Let it sit a little while to enjoy the evening air, while i danced a little longer, then into the oven to roast!

Here are the exact-ish amounts: it served the two of us, with leftovers for 3 small chicken-loving doggies.

1 whole chicken, med-small in size

4 cloves garlic, chopped

About 1-2 tablespoons chopped ginger

Pinch five spice

Pinch cumin

4 squares chile-fermented bean curd,mashed into a paste

1 tablespoon soy sauce

Drizzle sesame oil

2 tablespoons ginger wine or rice wine/mirin and a little extra ginger

1 clementine, cut into wedges

Coriander/cilantro to serve
Place chicken in a roasting pan just large enough to fit it.

Combine the garlic, ginger, five-spice and cumin, with the preserved tofu, soy sauce, sesame oil, and either ginger wine or mirin plus a little extra chopped ginger. Rub all over the chicken inside and out. Stick the clementine wedges into the cavity of the chicken. Set aside to marinate a bit–30 minutes is good, 2 hours is better.

Heat over to 400F; place chicken in, roast in high heat until browned, then reduce head to about 325 and continue roasting until its cooked through–usually takes about 1 hour 20 minutes in my oven.

Remove from heat, place chicken on plate, covered with foil while you make pan sauce.

Spoon off or drain off fat from pan drippings, then place roasting pan on stove top and add either water, broth or more wine, and cook, quickly, until pan juices or a nice intense jus forms. Pour the juices from the roasted chicken into the pan, and remove the clementine wedges, squeezing them into the pan juices too.

Serve the chicken either whole, or cut into serving pieces with its jus, sprinkled with coriander leaves/cilantro.

the pan juices are so savoury,the meat tender

eating piquillo peppers filled with chevre at bistro balzar, paris. next course was roast chicken. so good went back the next day!

Inspired by my Parisian peppers: you can roast your own if you have a glut of great red peppers, but the Spanish piquillo peppers, roasted and lying cozily in a tin, really: are wonderful, even for make-it-yourself moi. In the pic below you can see the bistro (Paris’ Bistro Balzar) served 3 tiny piquillo peppers; when I make it I serve one pretty large pepper; it really depends upon the size of the peppers you have available!

INGREDIENTS:

2 large roasted red peppers or 4 smaller piquillo peppers (see first paragraph below or note about pepper sizes above)

5 ounces soft goat cheese (from California or France), plain or herb/chive

1-2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

1-2 cloves garlic, chopped

A light sprinkle of pimenton (smoked Spanish paprika)

A few shakes of raspberry or balsamic vinegar

Handful young arugula, baby greens, young pea shoots, watercress, basil, whatever delicious little greens you fancy

1 tablespoon chopped chives, or chervil, or basil

INSTRUCTIONS:

If using large peppers, cut or tear each into two pieces; if using smaller piquillo peppers, leave them whole. Fill each pepper or pepper half with one quarter of the goat cheese; if using halved peppers, fold the pepper around the goat cheese; if using whole peppers, simply stuff them.

To serve cold: Place the stuffed pepper on a plate and sprinkle with the olive oil, chopped garlic, pimenton and a few sprinkles of raspberry vinegar. Accompany with greens, tossed in some of the olive oil and vinegar from the plate. Sprinkle with chives or other herbs, and serve.

To serve hot: Place the goat cheese-stuffed peppers in a heavy frying pan with the olive oil and garlic. Heat over medium-high heat on one side until it begins to sizzle, then turn over for a minute or two or until it heats through and the cheese just begins to run a little. Splash in the vinegar and sprinkle with the pimenton. Cook a minute or two longer, then serve on plates, with the greens, each hot pepper sprinkled with chopped chives or herbs.

Serves 4 as a starter